Every now and then, the action sports enthusiast needs a little pick me up. Something to stoke the fires of that feeling you get. A song you heard just before you start down that hill, drop in to that ramp, paddle out into that unforgiving ocean can be tremendous motivation. Photos take it a step further, acting like still images of the impossible, often times catching a moment that only the rider would know. A picture can take something that looks really cool at life speed, and multiply it by a thousand. And then there is video.
Video is unforgiving. If you have ever shot video of you and your buddies doing your chosen action sport, you realize real quick the talent of the professionals. You also realize that you and your friends are really good at goofing off and having fun. I am pretty sure this is how “Jackass” was born. Why do the pros have to be better at everything? I guess, because they are pros.
Over the last few days, most of today’s best surfers in the world gathered in Tahiti for the Billabong Pro surf contest. Kelly Slater won (shocker). But during a lull in the contest schedule, some of those same surfers went to one of the most famous big wave surf spots in the world. Teahupoo – a wave so massive the word ridiculous doesn’t do it justice. And it’s not the height that makes it so scary and so respected, though the heights of Teahupoo waves are insane. It’s the top of the curl. Every wave looks like it has a school bus size wall of water on the top of the tube. I am pretty sure the surfer that first started using the descriptor “killer” got inspiration from these waves.
So Tahiti sent out a red flag warning that these monsters were extra monster-y, and thus, tow-in only for anyone who dared. Plenty of people dared. And the video that was captured is so amazing that it is sure to pump up any surfer, and probably anyone who has ever dreamed of surfing. Watch this video, and realize that while you were doing whatever it is that you do the last few days, somebody was doing this. And the best part? They did this for fun. Not part of the contest. This is a glimpse into the soul of surfing. Check it out.
And remember, Oregon has a big wave surf contest. Yes, big waves in Oregon. Stay tuned for info on this years Nelscott Reef Competition. Licoln City, near the outlet mall. Don’t pretend you don’t know where that is.